Bladework

You're preparing to race and are concerned you aren't rating high enough. Why rating matters.

Three drills you can do to get the rate up. What prevents you getting the rate up?

Resource: Practicing Racing Starts

3 Value Bombs

  1. Know your ideal mid race rate
  2. Precise bladework can always be improved
  3. Over-rate drill helps you get confident at high rates

Timestamps

01:15 First you must know what your ideal race rate goal is for the main body of your race. Your training programme should have increasing race rates to help guide you closer to your race rate goal.

04:20 Be precise in your bladework practice.

Can you get your oars in and out in perfect time with your crew mates? Increase the quality of precise practice. Have a clearly defined sequence of the rowing stroke cycle. Do these movements slowly and then test under pressure (rate, firm pressure).

10:30 Over-rating as a test

Can you practice rating higher than your race pace rate?

11:00 Three drills for rating

  1. Half slide drill - take the rate up 2 strokes per minute every 10 strokes. Find the rate where your precision fails. Do this 3 times in every outing practice. Try at increasing pressure.
  2. Double quick hands drill - double quick hands around the finish - from the extraction round to weight on the feet on the recovery. Helps develop fluidity of movement in the handle speed.
  3. Over rating drill - row and pick a target rate and accelerate up to that rate and then do 10 strokes at that rate. Then wind down to light pressure. Then try it again at rates higher than your race pace goal. Later do the drill only to your race rate goal you should feel that you have plenty of time and can manage this rate with ease.

20:00 What should your rate be in the race? Challenge your preconceptions about race rate by practicing drills regularly. Get familiar with the feeling of getting the boat up to higher rates.


Want easy live streams like this? Instant broadcasts to Facebook, YouTube, LinkedIn. Faster Masters uses StreamYard: https://streamyard.com/pal/d/5694205242376192

Mis-timing the catch causes the boat to slow down. You can go faster for no extra effort.

Further resources

3 Value Bombs

  1. Listen to your seat to find the moment of the catch
  2. Have as few body movements as possible while sliding on the recovery
  3. Be active with your catch placement.

Timestamps

These three things are super-easy to correct and take no extra fitness and effort. So important for masters to enjoy our rowing and so "speed for free" is great for us.

01:45 Putting the oar in the water at the wrong moment.

Roll forward to full compression - there's a micro second when the seat is stationary. This is the moment when you want the oars already under the water.

  • Too early - means you miss the opportunity to use all your leg drive.
  • Too late - means you aren't at full slide; you waste leg drive because you're pushing air not water, and the bows are not at their highest.

03:50 The boat tilts longitudinally during the stroke

At the bows' high point you are generally at full slide and closest to the stern of the boat. This is when you want to place the oars into the water.

04:50 The cure starts at the finish

Get the set-up correct - refer to our earlier episode about Speed Murdering Mistake #2 The Finish.

  • Be prepared early for the catch.
  • Oars need to be square before you change direction on the slide.
  • Have as few body movements as possible while sliding.
  • Instability compromises catch timing
  • Loose legs on the recovery creates poise and control during the sliding and means you are doing less
  • Sequence off the back (finish) arms - body - legs bend last.

08:30 Ensure you correctly understand the recovery

You should not roll fully forwards before squaring. This movement needs to be earlier in the recovery.

09:15 What to do differently

  1. Look at your knees. They are at their highest at full slide and full compression.
  2. Listen for a moment of silence when the seat wheels stop moving. That's when the seat changes direction - that gives you an auditory timing point to place your catch
  3. Be active with your placement. Make a definite, active movement to place the oars under the water. Try pushing your handles away from you as a drill to practice this using your thumbs at 90 degrees along the oar handles to emphasise the pushing movement.

Watch the full Speed Murdering Mistakes mini-series

When I published the pause drills video I got some great questions from Dale W. First watch the video in which I explain 3 pause drills and how they help your rowing and sculling stroke.

Feedback from a masters rower

Dale writes

I like that you say you go through each of the pause positions several times when taking the continuous strokes so it's good for practicing position. 

I like that you talk succinctly about what you're doing  and don't use a lot of filler about non-relevant stuff. Thanks

Dale W, Faster Master Rower

Here are my answers to Dale's questions

  • Why do you use 'finish' instead of 'release’? I think this is British English versus US English usage.
  • if one is pausing at the release with the blades on the water - does that mean they're feathering straight out of the water instead of releasing square and then feathering? - which would put the blade in the air at the pause and the hands slightly in front of the body? Correct. the point of pausing with blades on the water is that it’s NOT the correct sequence - BUT it teaches people to finish the handles at the correct height and emphasises the elbow position. Too many folks finish with handles down in their lap and the oars drift out of the water rather than a defined movement.
  • Does feathering involve the fingers/hands/wrists/elbows? Watch this video 
  • What should things feel like at each of these positions?  I can't answer that you have to experience it.
  • When the arms are paused away, are the shoulder blades released or kept in place until the body pivots?  Kept in place.
  • When moving the body over, do the hips move or just the body?  Hips move
  • Does one do 100% of each position before doing the next motion while continuously rowing or is it just for drills? EXCEPT for the pause with blades on the water, you do 100% of each position before doing the next motion.
  • When does one roll up? Early enough to be ready for the placement into the water
  • Are the feet doing anything? Pressing into the foot stretcher through the soles.
  • I like that you talk about how people can check their positions at each pause - what should one be checking? Watch carefully I explain each position you’re checking that you ARE in that position.

We continue our mini-series on speed murdering mistakes in rowing and sculling. This follows last week's deep dive into blades on the surface .... this week we take a look at Rushing Off The Back. What, how, causes, cures.

Resource: The Finish Posture explained

3 Value Bombs

  1. Get better ratio when you fix a rush at the finish
  2. Your posture at the finish is key to improving - check it with video.
  3. The fastest point of boat speed is after the finish. You can get speed 'for free' by timing the body weight transition correctly.

Timestamps

01:00 These issues are straightforward to resolve. As a coach I can see the solution and until you realise the solution is there, you're ignorant.

01:30 Rushing off the back

The transition from the oar extraction through to when you roll up the slide is our focus area.

  1. When people rush it looks like a hustle, a race to get the oars out of the water and push the handle away. - The stroke lacks ratio (the contrast between power and recovery phases).
  2. You lose time for a rest.
  3. The boat doesn't run on if you rush. This is speed for free. By cutting the finish short the boat won't run on.
  4. Problems preparing for the catch. Your preparation is left later in the recovery when the boat is more tippy.
  5. Compromises the ability to get weight on your feet.

05:00 Cures for rushing

  • Finish the rowing stroke power phase in the correct finish position. Pressure on your feet; elbow position at the correct height and alignment to the oar shaft; thumbs on lower ribs; shoulders behind your hips leaning into bow.
  • The correct finish position sets you up to move onto the recovery correctly without rushing.
  • Separate the arm movement from the body movement after taking the oar out of the water. Get the arms straight first and then rock the body forwards. One follows from the other, not simultaneously.
  • Soften your knees to bend them slightly and your body weight coming forwards starts the slide movement and enables weight to come onto your feet.

08:30 Things to look out for

Look down and see if your elbows are partly bent as you rock the body forwards

Do your thumbs touch your lower ribs?

Are you finishing with handles horizontal or are they drawing down into your lap? Get some video so the finish and your body are in the frame.

09:30 Boat speed through the stroke cycle

The fastest point of boat speed is after the finish. This may sound counter-intuitive - the second surge of speed comes after the oars are extracted and as you transfer your body weight. Rebecca calls this speed for free.

Do 10 strokes normal, 10 strokes separating arms from body to spot the difference.

Watch the full Speed Murdering Mistakes mini-series

Want easy live streams like this? Instant broadcasts to Facebook, YouTube, LinkedIn. Faster Masters uses StreamYard: https://streamyard.com/pal/d/5694205242376192

Adjusting your stroke to match your partner. What to do to adapt and adjust so you align with a taller or shorter partner in the rowing boat.

Timestamps

01:00 In the program this month - peak 1k racing in May - August. Drills to maintain power in the stroke. Video how to get to the start calm and ready to race - Christine Wilson's rate progression warm up. Coachability as an athlete skill and attribute. How to write your race plan.

04:00 Rowing with a taller or shorter partner

Key to this is to worry less about height but instead focus on the arc of the blade through the water. When you fix up in the boat, adjust your footstretcher so your blades are parallel with your partner's at the catch and finish. Measure distance behind the face of the work / face of the gate. (58-62 cm is a normal range). To learn more about how to do this measurement watch our webinar Rigging for Masters https://fastermastersrowing.com/rigging/ Adjust so your oar shafts are exactly parallel at the finish.

06:00 A taller stroke

The oars will converge during the power phase and the recovery phase if you each row to the full extent of your reach and height. The short person cannot make the same arc as the taller person, especially if their oars are the same length and the gate/oarlock span is the same. When the blade arc is out of alignment, you need to make compromises to get in parallel. Get power aligned by being in the water together at the catch. So to get catch angles aligned means you will need to make compromises in how you row.

07:00 Compromises in the stroke

For the shorter person - get good body rock forwards at the finish and maintain this through the recovery up to the catch where your shins are vertical. For the taller person - work out how far forward you should roll. Use a drinking straw and tape it to the side of the boat, pointing upwards. So it brushes the shaft of your oar when you are at the correct catch angle to match the shorter person. 08:30 Rebecca's preference is to align with her partner at the catch rather than the finish. Blade alignments are made at the catch and the compromise is at the finish, she extracts her oars earlier. By getting the angle arc right you are more likely to optimise the boat speed and power alignment. Get more length by sitting up tall and letting your arms go wide, over the sides of the boat at the catch.

11:00 Branded merchandise - Waterproof socks for sale

Want easy live streams like this? Instant broadcasts to Facebook, YouTube, LinkedIn. Faster Masters uses

StreamYard: https://streamyard.com/pal/d/5694205242376192

Ways to use your boat rig to get a longer arc for the oar. Simplifying why it works and some key principles.

Timestamps

00:30 Rebecca's new shiny object is a wing rigger mounted gadget to mount a stroke coach and water bottle over your rigger.

Check out the 3Drow website for 3D printed rowing accessories.

01:45 Rigging a longer stroke

Having the oar in the water longer (distance rather than time). Taking the tip of the blade through a greater distance each stroke. Use the principle of the lever to understand how rowing oars and sculls work to propel the boat. Inboard and Outboard ratio is important to understand. With longer levers you need a greater force on the handle to move the oar though the same arc in the same time.

03:45 Is longer better?

As long as your athlete has the physical strength and power to move the oar through the water then you can use longer oars. There is a point of diminishing returns. The rowing sliding seat was invented to increase the arc through which the oar is rowed through. A longer slide gives a greater arc.

05:00 Does the athlete have the oar handling skills such that they can put the oar in the water at full reach at frontstops so you don't miss water?

Missing water means you have a shorter stroke than you are capable of. Rigging a longer stroke is a good solution for someone who is less skilled in bladework.

Suggest the athlete rows on a longer arc.

4 ways to row a longer arc

  • Shorten the inboard of the oar/scull
  • Move the footstretcher closer to the stern
  • So the catch angle is the same as other athletes
  • And they get a longer effective stroke when the oar is actually in the water

A physically short athlete where you want them to have the same oar arc as other crew members. Shorten the inboard and adjust the outboard so their gearing is the same as the rest of the crew.

07:30 Rig Diagram

This might be useful for you to try. Check the rigging diagram from Stephen Aitken - rowing angle changes presentation

08:00 Study the arc through which the rower's arm and oar moves during the power phase. The solid line shows a reduced span (moving the pin closer to the side of the boat). Th length of arc is determined by the athlete's anthropometrics (leg and arm length) and torso (height). A formula to calculate typical arc lengths.

10:00 For small changes of span/inboard this is a useful assumption.

Review the faulty logic - Only change one thing at a time (not always possible as one change affects other parameters)

- Options of things you can change span, inboard, stretcher position, gap between handles at the finish for sculling. Which COULD you change to lengthen the stroke?

three men rigging a quad scull rowing boat
Rigging for masters webinar - on demand

12:00 The conclusion that there's only one option that works Reducing inboard and span equally and adjusting footstretcher to keep the handle gap the same at the finish works with increases in all angles - catch and finish. Stephen recommends first reducing the inboard and then reduce the span equally.

13:15 Standardise rig across your boat fleet

Keep oars the same - similar inboards for quad/double and adjust for single. For sweep adjust for eight/four/pair.

Further Resources

Different situations call for different turning methods. I bet there's at least one you haven't tried yet.

Timestamps

00:45 Turning a boat sounds easy What is your goal when turning the boat? Where you are on the water now and where do you want to get to after the turn. Consider the local rules of the river / navigation.

03:00 Slide length - half slide or full slide rowing to turn the boat. Half the crew can row on bow/starboard and the others back down on strokeside/port. Consider the catch angle - the more acute it is the bow will turn faster.

04:15 Simultaneous or alternating strokes for your turning.

If alternating ensure the other side is ready to start as soon as the other side has finished. In sculling, let your resting side follow the other hand out to the catch and then it's in the right place to take the next stroke. This make the turn faster - less delay between strokes. Important if there's a current pushing the boat. Invest in yourself

Rowing VIP Day - invest in yourself.

10:45 A drag turn - around a large arc of a circle.

One side holds water and the other side rows. A shorter arc drag turn - only use the stern athletes checking water - so the retarding force is in the stern of the boat. Then have the athletes rowing be only in the bows to tighten the turn.

12:20 Chop turn - sit stationary legs and arms straight. One side turns the blades upside down and you lift your handles up and down. The curvature of the blades will slowly start to turn the boat. 13:20 Use end pairs to turn. In an eight have 8&6 back down and 1&3 row on. The middle athletes hold the boat stable while those with the most leverage are rowing.

14:20 Use the current on a river - start to turn the bows into the current so it's in the stream, that force pushes the bows around when turning into the stream (to go with the stream after the turn).

15:50 Checking water

The fastest way to stop a moving rowing boat - bury a feathered blade under the water. It quickly brakes and as the boat slows you can gradually square. This is an emergency stop method. If you try to check with a squared blade the speed of the water tends to push your oar out of the water. Using a feathered blade is my preferable method to check the boat.

17:30 Counter-feathering

Place the tip of the oar onto the water, blade feathered (the wrong way up). When backing down you can either do this with the oar upside down or with the oar the right way around. There are different advantages. The counter-feather makes it easier to keep the boat balanced on the backing side of the boat. Allows you to keep the boat level while turning and helps guide spatial awareness of where your oar tip is in space (if it's touching the water, you know).

20:15 Turning coxed boats

Turn the rudder in the direction of the turn. Get a good turn by starting the turn just as the crew finishes rowing. As they stop, think about your destination at the end of the turn. Easy at high balance - the boat runs on unchecked. You start to turn and then get the side of the boat on the inside of the turn to check it / hold water using the feathered water. This helps get about a third of the turn done before your crew starts backing. This shows your intent to other crews who are around you so they know what you're doing.

Want easy live streams like this? Instant broadcasts to Facebook, YouTube, LinkedIn. Faster Masters uses StreamYard: https://streamyard.com/pal/d/5694205242376192

Rowers and coaches dispute the benefits of making a backsplash when placing the oars into the water at the catch. Why? How can you find out which point of view is correct?

Timestamps

00:30 Newsletter sign up. You get early notification of all our events, webinars and courses as well as articles, points of view and discussions.

02:00 Backsplash is the upthrowing of water as the oar goes in at the catch. Does it show great skill and bladework timing the placement. Or is it a brake on the forward movement of the boat.

02:45 Valery Kleshnev BioRow explains "When the blade changes direction at the catch, its velocity relative to the boat changes to zero." A neutral entry into the water.

04:30 More or less backsplash?

Backsplash is throwing water towards the bow. Forward splash is throwing water towards the stern. A "V-splash" is a bit of both.

05:15 What happens at the catch?

Square before the oar goes in the water. When the seat stops to change direction is the perfect time for the oar to already be under the water. The oar handle moves upwards so the tip of the blade moves downwards towards the water.

Hatchet oars have a straight line on the bottom - can you get that line an inch above the water surface? Are you bringing the blade down to the water at the catch so you aren't missing water? Do this first. The oar must be under the water before it starts to power the stroke. The change of direction of the seat is the catch. After it goes in the water, how soon can you grip the water.

08:30 When to use backsplash

It's a useful teaching aide to teach the blade coming down to the water. First, try to hit the water before your seat changes direction. Lift the handles earlier to do this. Learn where the water is relative to your blade(s) and is it symmetrical. Squaring too late will prevent you getting the timing point at the catch. Roll forward last quarter of the slide with the oars square. Have fewer things to do at the placement.

Get more boat speed by working on the backsplash movement. You get the oar buried closer to full compression of the legs so miss less water. You may also find improved stability at the catch as both sides lift their hands simultaneously to create the backsplash.

14:30 How to teach backsplash

Start with only half the crew rowing so the boat is stable. Row with square blades to make the catch more simple. Row looking at the oar tip to see how close to the water they can get the spoon before placement. Then row without looking at the oar. Review the handle height and identify a visual reference so they know they have to lift their hands up to that point in order to make the oar spoon go down towards the water. Move onto lifting handles earlier in the recovery from half to three quarter slide. This requires a good high balance as you do it square blades. Then teach backsplash as a timing point against the seat changing direction. Drills to teach the handle movement of the placement.

18:00 Slap Catches - do the recovery feathered - leave the oar feathered and lift the handle up as if putting the oar into the water just slapping the water with a feathered oar at the catch. Alternate with a normal stroke. Listen for the timing of the slap - bow and stroke side. Make it loud.

[Since recording the podcast, I was corrected that the first time many people saw the slap catch drill was done by the Piemenov Brothers in their pair. They did a very light tap onto the water surface, then squared and placed the blade. This wasn't a 'slap' catch - but was a similar skill drill.]

Try an exaggeration 10 strokes backsplash then 10 strokes without. It's very hard to do if the boat isn't level.

Moving up the skill ladder from beginner to intermediate and then advanced requires improved skill. These 9 drills are essential for you to master, and to revisit regularly.

Timestamps

01:00 The skills ladder - a helpful concept to guide your learning as you progress. Execution to a high standard is the main difference between advanced scullers and beginners.

Coach Mastermind group - join us Get the skills checklist (Beginner, Intermediate and Advanced) helps coaches decide what to teach next. Allows you to teach a mixed ability group - all doing the same basic drill.

04:45 Nine Essential Rowing drills

1 - Legs Only - from the catch to legs straight. Watch for keeping shoulders sternward of the hips. It's good for teaching the timing of placement aligned with the seat change of direction and gripping the water at the start of the power phase. Do it square blades for beginners and the most advanced single scullers.

2 - Legs and Back Only - keep the arms straight. Teaches the transition from leg drive to adding the back swing. An exaggeration version is to complete legs before the back swings. This helps to recruit other muscles into the stroke power delivery. Variant - 10 strokes legs only, 10 strokes legs and back rowing.

3 - Wide Grip - sweep inside hand down the shaft; sculling hands on end of rubber grip or on the shaft. This increases the load in sculling to help to feel the grip connection at the catch - notice when the oars are in the water. Sweep it's useful to teach the outside / inside hand movements. The outside lifts the oar into the water. Variant - progressively move hands back to normal grip.

4 - Inside Arm Only - sweep only. Use this to time feathering and to load up the leg drive at the catch. Variant - hold outside hand and put inside hand onto backstay. This teaches how to rotate around the gate.

5 - Quarter Slide Push - the start of the power phase (reverse pick drill). Use only the first quarter of the slide from the catch. How to grip the water before you drive, timing the catch placement with the seat changing direction. Variant - do the the drill slowly and have inside hand hold the back of your seat to work out where the seat stops moving - that's the timing point to place the catch. The handles move faster than the seat on the recovery.

6 - No Handle Rowing - for the indoor rowing machine (dynamic is best for this drill). Put the handle down and roll up and down the slide - push in the power phase. This helps to teach the ratio and rhythm especially to athletes who rush the slide. They move in time with the machine. Pick up the handle and keep the legs working the same and later add in the arm draw. In a crew boat have half the crew sit the boat - push the handles away so the oars are parallel with the side of the boat. They must do it in time together.

7 - Left Hand Lead - get the sequence off the finish to the cross-over with the hands nested tightly together. Delay straightening the right hand, hold it against your chest as the left hand straightens. Teaches the left hand to move faster to the crossover so it can get in front of the right hand. Variation - do it with an intermediate position gradually reducing the right hand's waiting time. Check the body is leaning back in the finish position - no body movement during the drill.

8 - Single Strokes to Weight on the Feet - a pause point where you can get weight onto the soles of your feet. This position is important because it's where your body catch angle is set and is the point to deeply relax your legs during the recovery. It gives you feeling of moving with the boat.

9 - Double Quick Hands - move from the extraction at the finish to the arms away position twice as fast as normal. Then move to normal speed. It's a good way to follow on from the Left Hand Lead exercise. It develops the smoothness of the handle tap down and feather movement. Variant - make the double quick arms and body swing finishing it at weight on the feet. Another variant is to do double quick hands and then do a double slow slide.

24:45 Do these drills regularly - that's the important part. Your boat skills reduce when you have time out of the boat. Use these drills to re-familiarise yourself when you get back into the boat. Lose fine motor skills quickly and your catch placement timing is what you'll lose first after time out.

Want easy live streams like this? Instant broadcasts to Facebook, YouTube, LinkedIn. Faster Masters uses StreamYard: https://streamyard.com/pal/d/5694205242376192

Upskill your technique with some self-coached drills. This week we focus on your hand holding the handle - fingers flat on the recovery.

Timestamps

00:30 The open palm drill helps with getting improved skill handling the oars and sculls in the boat is key to improving your boat comfort. It sorts out your grip and handle placement on the recovery.

01:46 What is the drill for

It teaches how to have a loose grip on the recovery and also to have the weight of the oar in your hand so you can control the handle for correct feathering. Also, via the fulcrum you control the tip of the blade. This is a semi-advanced drill - not for beginners.

02:45 The Open Palm Drill - how to do it

Take the oar out of the water at the finish, feather and extend your arms and at that point straighten your fingers so the oar handle rests under your palm (where the palm and fingers meet). Have a straight line from knuckle, wrist and elbow. Put downwards pressure on the handle without gripping it.

Then rock forward and move through the recovery, bend your knees and roll up the slide. When you get to the position where you would normally square your blade, wrap your fingers around the handle and roll the blade square. And you’re ready to take the catch.

Row a normal power phase, then repeat the open palm recovery.

04:30 Teaching the drill

Start stationary - practice while sitting in the boat - arms straight and open fingers and wrap them back around the handle. Develop a sense of the amount of downward pressure needed to keep the handle at the same height and how to use the motion of wrapping the fingers around and squaring simultaneously. Check exactly where athletes are holding the handle on their palm. When wrapping the fingers - make it smooth and lead the wrapping movement into the squaring movement.

You have done it correctly when the blade is square the your knuckle/wrist/elbow are in a straight line.

06:00 How to use the drill

Row ten strokes of open palm rowing alternate with 10 strokes normal rowing. Can you stay in rhythm, all square together and stay in time on the recovery while opening the fingers without losing control of the oar? Good to use in warm up or during a steady paddle workout.

07:00 How much grip pressure is needed on the handle.

07:30 Errors to watch out for

  • Too nervous to actually straighten fingers and get to a flat palm position. Give the athlete confidence by practicing alone in a stable boat.
  • Rushing to straighten the fingers. Define one point when everyone has the palm flat - slow this down so the crew aligns timing and has correct movements.
  • Oar handle in the correct place on the palm.
  • Tapped down the blade extraction on the handle to clear the water at the finish and maintain that same height through the recovery.
  • Squaring completed in a single smooth movement. Square at the same time in the crew and start squaring early enough so it’s fully complete before you reach front stops.
  • Consistent press down so the depth is identical through the crew on every stroke. Can the athlete recognise the feeling of weight in the palm of the hand and how to use this feeling to control the oar during the recovery?

10:00 Advanced drill variations

  1. Check the athletes keep pressure on during the drill - so boat speed stays the same while doing the drill.
  2. Alternate strokes - open palm and normal hand grip. Particularly good for sweep practice.
  3. Sweep rowing - open palm only with inside hand. Or open palm only with outside hand.
  4. Pauses - at half slide with open palms.
  5. Pause at one quarter slide with open palms and add a double press-down on the handle. To practice feeling the control in the handle height, then roll forward to complete the recovery, square and place the catch.
  6. Alternate square blades and feather with open palm.
  7. Open palm at high rates and/or at firm pressure.
  8. Incorporate open palm as part of a pause drill - try saying the words “roll and slide” using the word association of sliding your seat and rolling fingers to make the squaring action. Define where you start the squaring movement to reinforce the movement.

Want easy live streams like this? Instant broadcasts to Facebook, YouTube, LinkedIn. Faster Masters uses StreamYard: https://streamyard.com/pal/d/5694205242376192

faster masters rowing magazine

Got a program already? Get our monthly magazine

Join our community and get our exclusive Faster Masters Rowing Magazine, packed with tips, techniques, and inspiring stories. Includes four new articles monthly.

PLUS get the Rowing Fundamentals bundle (US$279 value).
Just US$15/month
Sign Up Now